Paris fact Week Makes a reappearance After a COVID-19 interruption

Paris fact Week Makes a reappearance After a COVID-19 interruption




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PARIS — Paris fact Week is back after a coronavirus-related interruption. The high fact world went mainly digital for a year over the pandemic, but big hitters like Chanel, Hermes and Louis Vuitton are finally returning to the live runway this season. The must-have accessories? The confront disguise and health pass, bien sur.

Dior made sure that Tuesday’s ready-to-use reappearance — with VIPs such as actress Rosamund Pike and tennis ace Roger Federer — got off to a glitzy start on the first complete day of spring-summer 2022 collections. It was the famed house’s first ready-to-use runway since February 2020 — an emotional return for some.

Here are some highlights, including Saint Laurent:

Dior revives the ‘slim look’ for spring-summer 2022

Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri dived into the Dior archives to return with a playful collection that famous color and graphic form.

All around the venue — in an annex inside Paris’ Tuileries Gardens — were colored blocks and retro signs that were a clue to the collection’s 1960s aesthetic.

The show was a homage to former designer Marc Bohan, whose “Slim Look” collection from 1961 defined a generation. (Liz Taylor famously ordered 12 gowns closest from that iconic show.)

A form wears a creation for the Dior Spring-Summer 2022 ready-to-use fact show presented Tuesday, Sept. 28, 2021, in Paris.

AP Photo/Francois Mori

On Tuesday, Chiuri revamped Bohan’s slim styles with her current twist. Bold color-blocking — riffing off the decor — came in a camera-snapping palette of raspberry, red, navy, orange and green.

The characterize evoked a dream world. Models rotated robotically around the decor to off-kilter music. Stylish boxy ’60s jackets with graphic statement pockets mixed with sporty vests and dresses that channeled a tennis skirt. The main let down of the otherwise tasteful collection were a series of silken boxer pajamas — which made the house appear like it was trying too hard to be youthful.

Read more: fact After the Pandemic and the Great Closet Purge

Back to business for the fact trade

Now that coronavirus travel rules have been relaxed between Europe and the U.S., fact editors from New York have returned to the City of Light. It was an emotional event for many, who had missed seeing their international friends in the industry.

“It’s nice to see everyone. I’m happy that the system is back. I’m happy that the brands can get this kind of exposure,” said Kenneth Richard, editor-in-chief of The Impression magazine. “It’s a gift what we do.”

Read more: Inside Depop’s Plans for the Future of fact Upcycling

Richard expressed skepticism, however, in the way that Paris opened up so fully. Many at the Dior show and others did not use masks already though seating was extremely cramped. At Milan fact Week, social distancing and disguise-wearing were more stringently enforced.

“Look at this space, we’re shoulder to shoulder,” Richard said pointing to the four sections of back-to-back seating. “In Milan, everyone was three feet apart.”

Although a third of Paris fact Week’s 97 shows this season — including most of the heritage houses — have opted for a physical presence, some two-thirds keep digital.

Saint Laurent comes back to Paris fact Week

Former French first lady Carla Bruni and actress Catherine Deneuve looked up to the sky in awe as the Eiffel Tower sparkled at the strike of 8 p.m.

The storied house of Yves Saint Laurent famously said it was renouncing the Paris fact Week calendar. But on Tuesday it changed its mind, coming back on the first major day of shows. Thankfully it did — as it might it be crowned the season’s best collection so far.

A form walks at the Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris fact Week on September 28, 2021 in Paris, France.

Arnold Jerocki/Getty Images

Oozing sex popularity and glamour, designer Anthony Vaccarello was in a confident mood, breaking out of his typically restrictive short-skirted silhouettes for a bold collection that twinned style with provocation.

Notable details included a flash of bright blue gloves on a pale (identifying characteristics) tuxedo dress. Or a thick gold bracelet contrasting with a color-confined vermilion suit-skirt. dimensions were at times oversized, with abundant silk fabric weighing chicly on dress hems. Exposed nipples on models with piercings mixed this classicism with a fierce street vibe.

A statement on fact and the ecosystem

Surreal marine head gear, masks and breathing apparatus at the Botter show conjured up a underwater dystopia. Or was Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh’s show just another swipe at the pandemic?

Either way, the designers were in fine fact-forward form for spring-summer in their statement about ecology and the state of the oceans.

Read more: The Women Who Took on the fact Industry to Save the Birds

A diaphanous curtain billowed as if it were underwater as models strutted out in marine themes, including swimming caps, scuba looks, a boxy T-shirt with “CARIBBEAN” on it and a large blue umbrella for a hat. Tongue-in-cheek humor was never far away from the design inspirations and blue, of course, was the defining color of the show.

The house said over half the fiber in the characterize were produced from recycled ocean plastic.

Kenneth Ize is fact’s rising star

Kenneth Ize kick-started the week with a vibrant, color-high characterize that paid homage to his Nigerian heritage.

There was a lot to prove for the young designer, who was a finalist of the 2019 LVMH Prize and caught global attention for his 2020 debut show because Naomi Campbell hit the runway. however he pulled it off with panache.

Moving away from the sober colors of his last collection, Ize used gold shimmer and bright patterns for an optimistic view of spring. Sexy silk slip gowns mixed with fun plays in clashing stripes. Sandals on each of the show’s 29 looks gave off a relaxed vibe.

A form walks the runway during the Kenneth Ize Ready to use Spring/Summer 2022 fact show as part of the Paris fact Week on September 27, 2021 in Paris, France.

Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Other garments also evoked couture.

“We produce our woven fiber using the age-long weaving techniques of the Yoruba people in present day southwestern Nigeria,” Ize told The Associated Press after the show. “We merge these weaving techniques with what we consider our version of modernity, creating a sync between a historical craftsmanship and modern silhouettes.”

Celebrating both continents of Europe and Africa (the designer was born in Vienna to Nigerian parents and grew up in Austria), his couture-conscious craftmanship was apparent in gold dresses and diaphanous gold thread, with one border billowing down from a bag like in a fairy tale or Greek myth.

Ize is one to watch.

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